Amalfi Coast Itinerary: The Honest Guide (2026)

The Towns: Which to Visit, Which to Skip

Positano: the most photogenic, most expensive, most crowded. Worth seeing but don't base yourself here unless budget is no object. Beautiful for 2 hours, exhausting for 2 days.

Ravello: the best town on the coast, perched 350m above the sea. Villa Cimbrone gardens (€7) have the finest view of the entire Amalfi Coast — the Terrace of Infinity. Wagner composed here. Quieter, cheaper, more authentic than the waterfront towns.

Amalfi town: pleasant, manageable, central. The Cathedral is free and impressive. Good base for day trips. Not as overrun as Positano.

Praiano: hidden gem between Positano and Amalfi, much fewer tourists, the same cliff scenery, a fraction of the prices. Best sunset point on the coast.

Cetara: fishing village at the eastern end, famous for colatura di alici (anchovy sauce). Authentic, un-touristy, excellent seafood restaurants.

Getting Around (The Crucial Part)

Never drive the coast road in July-August. The alternatives:

• Ferry: the most enjoyable option. Runs between Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento. Timetable at coopsantandrea.it.
• Bus (SITA): cheap (€1.30/trip), slow, impossibly crowded in summer but it works
• Drive early: if you must drive, leave before 8am. The road is genuinely impossible 10am-6pm in peak season.

Hidden Beaches

Furore Fjord: a tiny beach inside a narrow gorge between Positano and Amalfi — you can only reach it by swimming from the road or taking the stairs. Worth the effort.

Marina di Praia (Praiano): small cove, beach bar, much less crowded than Positano or Amalfi beaches.

Spiaggia di Erchie: accessible only by boat or via a long footpath, completely undeveloped.

When to Visit

Best: May-June (warm enough to swim, 80% fewer tourists than August), September-October (sea still warm, crowds thinning). Avoid: July 15 – August 31 (capacity crisis). Shoulder secret: early May when the lemon trees are in full bloom — the scent and colour is overwhelming.