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Lake Como is 50km long, shaped like an upside-down Y, and contains more beauty per square kilometre than almost anywhere in Italy. It also contains some of Italy's most expensive hotels and most congested roads. Knowing which to choose makes the difference.
Which Town to Base Yourself
Como city (south end): best transport links (train from Milan, 40 min), good base for day trips, real city feel. Not the prettiest but practical.
Bellagio (central, at the fork): the classic choice, most beautiful setting, expensive, summer crowds. Worth visiting even if you don't stay.
Varenna: quieter than Bellagio, equally beautiful, better value accommodation, excellent ferry connections. Our top recommendation for overnight stays.
Menaggio: facing Switzerland across the lake, good hiking access, reasonable prices, regular ferry to Bellagio (10 min).
Tremezzo: home to Villa Carlotta (the best gardens on the lake), quiet, upmarket, spectacular views.
Getting Around
The ferry system (Navigazione Laghi) is the best way to move between towns — roads around the lake are single-lane, traffic-choked and terrifying to drive in summer. Buy a day pass (€17) or per-trip tickets. The slow ferry (traghetto) connects all major towns; the hydrofoil is faster but doesn't stop everywhere.
From Milan: direct trains to Como S. Giovanni (40 min, €5) or Varenna-Esino (1h15, €12). Do not drive from Milan in summer.
Take the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio at sunset (last service around 7pm). The light on the mountains and the water at that hour is extraordinary. Return by the evening service or stay for dinner.
What to See
- Villa Carlotta (Tremezzo): the most beautiful gardens on the lake, open April-October. €12 entry. Azaleas in April are spectacular.
- Villa del Balbianello (Lenno): Bond film location, wedding venue, UNESCO listed. Accessible only by boat or 20-min walk. Book ahead (€18).
- Bellagio old town: the stepped streets (salite) between the waterfront and the church are the most photographed scene on the lake
- Varenna Castle (Castello di Vezio): 20-min hike from Varenna, medieval ruins with lake views that beat everything else
- Como Cathedral: overlooked Gothic-Renaissance hybrid in the city of Como, free entry
When to Visit
Best: April-May (azaleas blooming, fewer crowds, reasonable prices), September-October (warm water, harvest season, beautiful light). July-August: unbearably crowded and hot, prices peak, ferries packed. November-March: many hotels close, some restaurants shut, but the lake in winter fog is hauntingly beautiful and very cheap.
| Month | Weather | Crowds | Prices |
|---|---|---|---|
| April-May | Mild, 18-22°C | Low-medium | Medium |
| June | Warm, 24-27°C | High | High |
| July-Aug | Hot, 28-32°C | Very high | Very high |
| Sept-Oct | Warm, 20-25°C | Medium | Medium-high |
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